Casquette D'Afrique
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A casquette d'Afrique was a type of lightweight military headgear generally used by the French metropolitan and colonial armies from the early 1830s to the 1860s.


Background

By the late 18th century/early 19th century, European military uniform had developed from a relatively easy-fitting, all-purpose coat/waistcoat-tunic/breeches/hat 'suit' of clothes worn by soldiers for all occasions into a separate formal parade-style uniform with stiff
shako A shako (, , or ) is a tall, cylindrical military cap, usually with a visor, and sometimes tapered at the top. It is usually adorned with an ornamental plate or badge on the front, metallic or otherwise; and often has a feather, plume (see hackle) ...
cap and another secondary simple uniform with soft cap for all other purposes. As most European armies' enemies would be other European armies, it was accepted convention that only the best-dress uniform was to be worn into battle, though concession may be given to vagaries of weather. However, countries with expanding colonies, such as
Great Britain Great Britain is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of continental Europe. With an area of , it is the largest of the British Isles, the largest European island and the ninth-largest island in the world. It is ...
, did not see the same need for formality whilst fighting its colonial wars and secondary uniforms with local modifications, tended to be worn. France too adopted this thinking when it embarked on a programme of colonial expansion into
Algeria ) , image_map = Algeria (centered orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = , image_map2 = , capital = Algiers , coordinates = , largest_city = capital , relig ...
in 1830.


Description

Initially dressed mainly in dark blue/crimson full-dress uniforms and heavy leather shakos covered in black cloth with large brass badge, the French soon found such a uniform impractical in the testing climate of
Algeria ) , image_map = Algeria (centered orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = , image_map2 = , capital = Algiers , coordinates = , largest_city = capital , relig ...
. Soon, they were wearing their simpler, secondary uniforms with
Napoleonic Napoleon Bonaparte ; it, Napoleone Bonaparte, ; co, Napulione Buonaparte. (born Napoleone Buonaparte; 15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821), later known by his regnal name Napoleon I, was a French military commander and political leader wh ...
-style soft cap known as '' bonnet de police''. This was a form of forage or large side cap comprising a long, tapered cloth bag with tassel at the point, having a large turn-up at the base of the cap. The turn-up was called a ''turban'', whilst the tapered bag was called a ''flamme''. The long flamme could be worn hanging down the side of the wearer's head and over the shoulder, or else it could be doubled up and tucked into the turban, with just the tassel hanging down through a notch in the front of the turban. For infantry, the flamme was ''garance'' (crimson) colour, whilst the turban was dark blue. Narrow lines of dark blue piping (''passepoil'') ran up four sides of the flamme to the point. A cloth badge, such as a bursting grenade, was often worn on the front of the turban.


Evolution

As the bonnet de police had no visor, it could not shield wearers' eyes from the sun and alternative, visored, caps were being experimented with. One variety resembled a modern
peaked cap The peaked cap, peaked hat, service cap, barracks cover or combination cap is a form of headgear worn by the armed forces of many nations, as well as many uniformed civilian organisations such as law enforcement agencies and fire departments. It ...
with wide crown and horizontal visor, with dark blue band and crimson top and undersides. Other styles appeared, cylindrical in shape, with slightly sunken crimson top, crimson sides (flamme), national red/white/blue cockade top front, and dark blue band (turban) with flat rounded visor and retractable leather neckflap. Early models had stiff lining, but other models had cane (rattan) skeleton framing for weight-reduction. Obviously influenced by the old bonnet de police, this cap became known as the casquette d'Afrique (African cap) and became universal wear amongst France's European troops. Later models were more stylish and lightweight, one definitive trend being to taper the flamme/body toward the top, so the round top had a smaller diameter than the bottom of the cap and to tilt the flamme/body toward the front. Apart from being lighter, this also gave the cap a rakish, elegant appearance.


New Shako

In December 1844, a new black shako was introduced for the French Army, based on the shape of the casquette d'Afrique. This started a series of new shako models over the years, often associated with the glory years of the last Empire of
Napoleon III Napoleon III (Charles Louis Napoléon Bonaparte; 20 April 18089 January 1873) was the first President of France (as Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte) from 1848 to 1852 and the last monarch of France as Emperor of the French from 1852 to 1870. A nephew ...
. The new tapered shako symbolised France's prestige to the extent that French uniform style was copied by many important armies of the 1850s/60's, including the British Army, Russian Army, United States Army and even some of the German states.


Replacement by Kepi

1852 saw the demise of the casquette d'Afrique, when a smaller, softer version was introduced, known as ''bonnet de police à visière'' - or more commonly - ''képi''. The
kepi The kepi ( ) is a cap with a flat circular top and a peak, or visor. In English, the term is a loanword of french: képi, itself a re-spelled version of the gsw, Käppi, a diminutive form of , meaning "cap". In Europe, this headgear is most ...
was basically a casquette d'Afrique, reduced in overall size of body etc., with stiffening removed. The casquette didn't disappear entirely however, as France's famous European colonial cavalry, ''les
Chasseurs d'Afrique The ''Chasseurs d'Afrique'' were a light cavalry corps of chasseurs in the French Armée d'Afrique (Army of Africa). First raised in 1831 from regular French cavalry posted to Algeria, they numbered five regiments by World War II. For most of ...
'' continued to wear their ''bleu ciel/garance'' (light blue/crimson) ''casquette'' until 1939 as full dress, together with the more
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-looking ''chéchia'' style of
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. A famous
Crimea Crimea, crh, Къырым, Qırım, grc, Κιμμερία / Ταυρική, translit=Kimmería / Taurikḗ ( ) is a peninsula in Ukraine, on the northern coast of the Black Sea, that has been occupied by Russia since 2014. It has a pop ...
n photograph taken by
Roger Fenton Roger Fenton (28 March 1819 – 8 August 1869) was a British photographer, noted as one of the first war photographers. Fenton was born into a Lancashire merchant family. After graduating from London with an Arts degree, he became interested i ...
exists, showing a group of Chasseurs d'Afrique wearing their casquettes d'Afrique.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Casquette D'afrique 1830s fashion 1840s fashion 1850s fashion 1860s fashion 1870s fashion French military uniforms Headgear Second French intervention in Mexico Civil War military equipment of the United States French Foreign Legion